Swimming Pool Chlorine Level Too High

swimming pool chlorine level too high

HAND SKIMMER: A screen attached to a frame which is then attached to a telescopic pole used to remove large floating debris, such as leaves and bugs, from the water's surface.

HEATER: A fossil-fueled, electric or solar device used to heat the water of a pool, hot tub or hot tub.

NEUTRALIZER: A chemical used to make chlorine or bromine harmless. Used in test kits to counteract the bleaching effect of the chlorine or bromine in order to increase the accuracy of pool water tests. Sold as chlorine and bromine neutralizer, it is used to destroy excessive amounts of chlorine or bromine so the high levels will not affect swimmers.

OXIDIZER: A non-chlorine shocking compound that removes or destroys built-up contaminants and chloramines in pool water without raising chlorine levels.

PUMP: A mechanical device, usually powered by an electric motor, which causes hydraulic flow and pressure for the purpose of filtration, heating and circulation of pool and hot tub water. Typically, a centrifugal pump is used for pools, spas and hot tubs.

PUMP CAPACITY: The volume of liquid a pump is capable of moving during a specified period of time. This is usually listed in gallons per minute or gpm.

pH: Abbreviation for Potential Hydrogen. Indicates the level of acidity or alkalinity of water on a scale ranging from 0-15. A low pH can cause etched plaster, metal corrosion and eye irritation. A high pH can cause scale formation, chlorine inefficiency and eye irritation. The ideal range for pH in swimming pools is typically 7.4 to 7.6.

SANITIZERS: Chemical compounds designed to kill bacteria, algae and other living organisms. Also protects water from the effects of the sun.

SHOCK TREATMENT: The practice of adding significant amounts of an oxidizing chemical -- (usually non-chlorine oxidizers, such as sodium persulfate or potassium peroxymonosulfate) -- to the water to destroy ammonia and nitrogen compounds caused by swimmers, the environment and/or weather.

SKIMMER: A device installed through the wall of a pool or hot tub that is connected to the suction line of the pump that draws water and floating debris in the water flow from the surface without causing much flow restriction.

SKIMMER BASKET: A removable, slotted basket or strainer placed in the skimmer on the suction side of the pump, which is designed to trap floating debris in the water flow from the surface without causing flow restriction.

TEST KIT: An apparatus or device used to monitor specific chemical residuals, levels, constituents or demands in pool or hot tub water. The most common pool and hot tub water tests are: pH, total alkalinity, free available chlorine, water hardness, cyanuric acid, iron and copper.

TURBIDITY: The cloudy condition of the water due to the presence of extremely fine particles in suspension that cannot be trapped by the filter because they are too small. Adding a clarifier, such as an organic polymer or alum, will coagulate the particles and make the filter more efficient.

WATER CLARIFIER: Also called coagulant or flocculant . A chemical compound used to gather (coagulate or agglomerate) or to precipitate suspended particles so they may be removed by vacuuming or filtration. There are two types; inorganic salts of aluminum (alum) and other metals or water-soluble organic polyelectrolytes.

WEIR: The small floating "door" on the side of the skimmer that faces the water over which water flows on its way to the skimmer. Adjusts automatically to small changes in water level to assure a continuous flow of water to the skimmer. The weir also prevents debris from floating back into the pool after the pump shuts off. Also known as a skimmer weir.">GLOSSARY OF POOL TERMS from swimmingpool.com #poolcare<br /><br />AIR-RELIEF VALVE: A manually-operated  valve located at the top of a filter tank for relieving the pressure inside the filter and removing the air inside the filter (bleeding the filter). Also known as a pressure-relief valve.<br /><br />ALGAE: Microscopic plant-like organisms that contain chlorophyll. Algae is nourished by carbon dioxide (CO2) and use sunlight to carry out photosynthesis. It can be introduced by rain or wind and grows in colonies, producing nuisance masses. Algae can harbor bacteria and can be slippery. There are thousands of known species of algae. The most common types of algae found in pools are black, blue-green, green and mustard .<br /><br />ALGAECIDES: Chemical compounds designed to kill, prevent and control algae.<br /><br />AUTOMATIC POOL CLEANER: A pool maintenance system that will agitate and/or vacuum debris from the pool interior automatically.<br /><br />BACKFLOW: The backing up of water through a pipe in the direction opposite to normal flow.<br /><br />BACKWASH: The process of thoroughly cleaning the filter by reversing the flow of water through it with the dirt and rinse water going to waste.<br /><br />BALANCERS: Chemical compound designed to prevent corrosion and staining by balancing the pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness in pool water.<br /><br />BROMIDE: A common term for a bromide salt used to supply bromide ions to the water so they may be oxidized or changed into hypobromous acid. Used as a disinfectant.<br /><br />BROMINE: A common name for a chemical compound containing bromine that is used as a disinfectant to destroy bacteria and algae in swimming pools and spas.<br /><br />CENTRIFUGAL PUMP: A pump consisting of an impeller fixed on a rotating shaft and enclosed in a casing or volute and having an inlet and a discharge connection. The rotating impeller creates pressure in the water by the velocity derived from the centrifugal force.<br /><br />CHECK VALVE: A mechanical device in a pipe that permits the flow of water or air in one direction only.<br /><br />CHEMICAL FEEDER: A device that dispenses chemicals into pool or hot tub water at a predetermined rate. Some dispense chlorine or bromine while others dispense pH-adjusting chemicals.<br /><br />CHLORINE NEUTRALIZER: A chemical used to make chlorine harmless. Used in test kits to counteract the bleaching effect of the chlorine or bromine in order to increase the accuracy of pool water tests. Sold as chlorine and bromine neutralizer, it is used to destroy excessive amounts of chlorine or bromine so the high levels will not affect swimmers.<br /><br />CHLORINE: A term used to describe any type of chlorine compound used as a disinfectant in swimming pool and hot tub water or to kill, destroy or control bacteria and algae. In addition, chlorine oxidizes ammonia and nitrogen compounds cause by swimmers.<br /><br />COPING: The cap or top lip on the pool or hot tub wall that provides a finished edge around the pool or spa.<br /><br />CORROSION: The etching, pitting or eating away of the pool or hot tub or equipment. Can be caused by improper water balance, misuse of acid or acidic products or from soft water.<br /><br />COVER, SOLAR: A cover that, when placed on the water's surface of a pool, hot tub or hot tub, increases the water temperature by absorption and transmission of solar radiation; reduces evaporation and prevents debris from entering the water.<br /><br />D.E.: Diatomaceous Earth — a porous substance used in certain types of pool filters.<br /><br />DRAIN: This term usually refers to a plumbing fitting installed on the suction side of the pump in pools, spas and hot tubs. Sometimes called the main drain, it is located in the deepest part of the pool, hot tub or hot tub. It does not function like a drain on a kitchen sink. Pool main drains do not allow the water to drain to waste but rather connect to the pump for circulation and filtration.<br /><br />FIBERGLASS: Finespun filaments of glass which are available in a rope or mat form. When used in a process with polyester resins, catalysts and hardeners, can be formed or molded into pools and spas.<br /><br />FILTER: A device that removes dissolved or suspended particles from water by recirculating the water through a porous substance (a filter medium or element). The three types of filters used in pools and spas are sand, cartridge and D.E. (diatomaceous earth).<br /><br />FILTRATION RATE: The rate at which the water is traveling through the filter, expressed in U.S. gallons per minute (gpm) per square foot of filter area.<br /><br />FLOW RATE: The quantity of water flowing past a designated point within a specified time, such as the number of gallons flowing past a point in 1 minute — also known as gallons per minute or gpm.<br /><br />GUNITE: A mixture of cement and sand sprayed onto contoured and supported surfaces to build a pool. Gunite is mixed and pumped to the site dry, and water is added at the point of application. Plaster is usually applied over the gunite.<br /><br />GUTTER: An overflow trough at the edge of the pool through which floating debris, oil and other
HAND SKIMMER: A screen attached to a frame which is then attached to a telescopic pole used to remove large floating debris, such as leaves and bugs, from the water's surface.

HEATER: A fossil-fueled, electric or solar device used to heat the water of a pool, hot tub or hot tub.

NEUTRALIZER: A chemical used to make chlorine or bromine harmless. Used in test kits to counteract the bleaching effect of the chlorine or bromine in order to increase the accuracy of pool water tests. Sold as chlorine and bromine neutralizer, it is used to destroy excessive amounts of chlorine or bromine so the high levels will not affect swimmers.

OXIDIZER: A non-chlorine shocking compound that removes or destroys built-up contaminants and chloramines in pool water without raising chlorine levels.

PUMP: A mechanical device, usually powered by an electric motor, which causes hydraulic flow and pressure for the purpose of filtration, heating and circulation of pool and hot tub water. Typically, a centrifugal pump is used for pools, spas and hot tubs.

PUMP CAPACITY: The volume of liquid a pump is capable of moving during a specified period of time. This is usually listed in gallons per minute or gpm.

pH: Abbreviation for Potential Hydrogen. Indicates the level of acidity or alkalinity of water on a scale ranging from 0-15. A low pH can cause etched plaster, metal corrosion and eye irritation. A high pH can cause scale formation, chlorine inefficiency and eye irritation. The ideal range for pH in swimming pools is typically 7.4 to 7.6.

SANITIZERS: Chemical compounds designed to kill bacteria, algae and other living organisms. Also protects water from the effects of the sun.

SHOCK TREATMENT: The practice of adding significant amounts of an oxidizing chemical -- (usually non-chlorine oxidizers, such as sodium persulfate or potassium peroxymonosulfate) -- to the water to destroy ammonia and nitrogen compounds caused by swimmers, the environment and/or weather.

SKIMMER: A device installed through the wall of a pool or hot tub that is connected to the suction line of the pump that draws water and floating debris in the water flow from the surface without causing much flow restriction.

SKIMMER BASKET: A removable, slotted basket or strainer placed in the skimmer on the suction side of the pump, which is designed to trap floating debris in the water flow from the surface without causing flow restriction.

TEST KIT: An apparatus or device used to monitor specific chemical residuals, levels, constituents or demands in pool or hot tub water. The most common pool and hot tub water tests are: pH, total alkalinity, free available chlorine, water hardness, cyanuric acid, iron and copper.

TURBIDITY: The cloudy condition of the water due to the presence of extremely fine particles in suspension that cannot be trapped by the filter because they are too small. Adding a clarifier, such as an organic polymer or alum, will coagulate the particles and make the filter more efficient.

WATER CLARIFIER: Also called coagulant or flocculant . A chemical compound used to gather (coagulate or agglomerate) or to precipitate suspended particles so they may be removed by vacuuming or filtration. There are two types; inorganic salts of aluminum (alum) and other metals or water-soluble organic polyelectrolytes.

WEIR: The small floating "door" on the side of the skimmer that faces the water over which water flows on its way to the skimmer. Adjusts automatically to small changes in water level to assure a continuous flow of water to the skimmer. The weir also prevents debris from floating back into the pool after the pump shuts off. Also known as a skimmer weir." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-_YVGoM2U948/VMBogqxdinI/AAAAAAAAAJg/BDcNpueC0WI/14389.jpg" width="100" height="100" />
How to teach a Dog to swim<br /><br />Most dogs are not born knowing how to swim. Even the water retrievers, such as Labradors and Chesapeake Bay retrievers, must learn how to swim as puppies or young adults. Training a dog to swim is not necessarily a difficult task, but it does require a willing dog and water deep enough that the dog cannot touch bottom with his feet. Given their physical capability and mental capacity, many dogs can learn to swim in a lesson or two.<br /><br />Step 1<br /><br />Select your location carefully. If your dog’s only interaction with water is the bath tub, he may not be enthusiastic to approach the water at first. Introduce your dog to a small, quiet body of water with no waves or currents, such as a kiddie pool or a pond. A stream with a grassy bank is alright, as long as there is no discernible current.<br /><br />Step 2<br /><br />Allow your dog to approach the water gradually. Let him sniff the water and lap at it as he desires, as long as it is not chlorinated pool water.<br /><br />Step 3<br /><br />Encourage your dog to put his front feet in the water. Lure him in by taking several steps into the water ahead of him and offering him treats. A floating toy, particularly one stuffed with treats, works well.<br /><br />Step 4<br /><br />Put your dog’s life jacket, collar and vest on him. Allow him a few minutes to walk around with his jacket on until he is relaxed and wagging his tail.<br /><br />Step 5<br /><br />Walk your dog into the water gradually, leading him and coaxing him as needed. If he stops, allow him to relax again. If your dog is uncomfortable with the experience, his posture will be rigid, his head will be low and forward, and his tail will be down and possibly between his legs. He may grimace and whine, as well. If he takes this posture, speak quietly to him, but do not allow him to retreat from the water. Stroke his head, neck, and chest until he relaxes his posture and begins wagging his tail.<br /><br />Step 6<br /><br />Prepare for your dog’s reaction when his paws leave the bottom for the first time. Hold your arms under your dog’s midsection. Place one hand at the base of his ribcage and the other on his stomach. Hold his hips as close to level with the high point of his shoulders as possible. Raising his rear end will encourage him to kick with his hind legs and will prevent him from attempting to swim with only his front paws, which will tire him very quickly. If necessary, lure him with food or a toy to encourage him to extend his neck forward and to keep his head parallel to the water (See References 3).<br /><br />Step 7<br /><br />Walk along side your dog as he makes forward progress, supporting his ribcage and stomach. Hold his hips as close to level with the high point of his shoulders as possible. Keep supporting him until he is relaxed and is kicking purposefully with all four legs. If he begins to swim without encouragement or nervousness, remove his leash from his collar.<br /><br />#dogs #doglovers #dogsareawesome #dogsrule #dogsofgoogleplus #dogsofgoogle   #animals #animallovers #animalphotography #dogphotography #dogsphotography #dogsphotographs #dogpictures #dogpictureoftheday #dogpicoftheday #dogpics #dogslife   #gif #animals #animallovers #cute #cuteanimals #cuteness #cutenessoverload #animaloftheday #gifoftheday #gifofthedayindeed #gifoftheweek
Salt Systems (Salt-Chlorine Generators) for Inground and Aboveground Swimming Pools<br /><br />You can say goodbye to harsh chemicals & chlorine odor, and irritated eyes when you use a salt system (Salt-chlorine generator) to sanitize your swimming pool. Salt chlorine generators use ordinary salt to naturally produce pure chlorine. By doing so, salt water chlorine generation provides the sanitization necessary to keep pool water clean without the need for handling or frequent monitoring of chlorine. As a result, pool owners who use salt chlorine generators can enjoy remarkable convenience and safety in addition to sparkling clean, crystal clear swimming water that's soft, silky - and much less effort than traditional sanitizers.<br /><br />Specialty Pool Products' line of swimming pool supplies includes a diverse selection of high quality swimming pool salt chlorine generators from trusted brand names such as Hayward, Jandy, Intex, Blue Essence and others. With today's models capable of sanitizing up to 50,000 gallons, every swimming pool owner can enjoy the benefits and advantages that come with using a salt chlorine generator to achieve and maintain beautifully clean, inviting swimming pool water.<br /><br />Salt-Chlorine Generators are safe for use in all pool surfaces, including fiberglass, vinyl, plaster, and concrete swimming pools and provide for easy yet effective pool maintenance. By evenly dispersing chlorine and by providing simple adjustment of chlorine output, salt chlorine generators allow pool owners to spend more time enjoying their pool rather than dealing with harsh, dangerous chemicals. Similarly, Salt Systems are exceptionally safe and easy to use, and will provide consistently clean, silky water. How do they work? Typically, salt systems utilize a natural electrolytic process to generate pure chlorine. The salt concentration is very low (less than a teaspoon per gallon of pool water), but it's sufficient to generate free chlorine, naturally! The chlorine continuously kills algae, bacteria & contaminants, then reverts back to salt & the process repeats. There's less time spent on maintenance, less money spent on chemicals and they're fast & easy to install on both new existing swimming pools.<br /><br />Specialty Pool Products' selection of salt water chlorine generators includes models for both Inground and Aboveground pools:<br /><br />Salt Systems (Salt-Chlorine Generators) for Inground Swimming Pools:<br />Goldine AquaRite<br />Autopilot<br />Hayward SwimPure<br />Jandy AquaPure Ei<br />Hayward Salt & Swim<br /><br />Salt Systems (Salt-Chlorine Generators) for Inground Swimming Pools:<br />Intex<br />AquaTrol<br />ChlorEase<br />Simpl-Chlor<br />Saltron Retro<br /><br />All of our salt chlorine generators will provide automatic, natural pool sanitization and are available at competitive prices.

The term "whitening," on the other hand, refers to restoring a tooth's surface color by removing dirt and debris. So any product that cleans (like a toothpaste) is technically considered a whitener. Of course, the term whitening sounds better than bleaching, so it is more frequently used – even when describing products that contain bleach.

Why Teeth Whitening? Examining Enamel
Most of us start out with sparkling white teeth, thanks to their porcelain-like enamel surface. Composed of microscopic crystalline rods, tooth enamel is designed to protect the teeth from the effects of chewing, gnashing, trauma and acid attacks caused by sugar. But over the years enamel is worn down, becoming more transparent and permitting the yellow color of dentin – the tooth's core material – to show through.

During routine chewing, dentin remains intact while millions of micro-cracks occur in the enamel. It is these cracks, as well as the spaces between the crystalline enamel rods, that gradually fill up with stains and debris. As a result, the teeth eventually develop a dull, lackluster appearance.

Teeth whitening removes the stains and debris, leaving the enamel cracks open and exposed. Some of the cracks are quickly re-mineralized by saliva, while others are filled up again with organic debris.

Tooth Discoloration: The Two Types of Tooth Stains
There are two categories of staining as it relates to the teeth: extrinsic staining and intrinsic staining.
Extrinsic stains are those that appear on the surface of the teeth as a result of exposure to dark-colored beverages, foods and tobacco, and routine wear and tear. Superficial extrinsic stains are minor and can be removed with brushing and prophylactic dental cleaning. Stubborn extrinsic stains can be removed with more involved efforts, like teeth bleaching. Persistent extrinsic stains can penetrate into the dentin and become ingrained if they are not dealt with early.">SPECIAL ON TEETH WHITENING - FULL TEETH WHITENING TREATMENT FOR R 1450 SAVE UP TO -55% OFF MARKET PRICE. Free Home Whitening Treatment Gift Included !!!!<br /><br />Advance Teeth Whitening Pretoria.<br />For a Natural, Enamel Building Re-Mineral Teeth Whitening treatment.<br /><br />Bookings at Bonnie: 072 749 6131<br /><br />advanceteethwhitening@gmail.com<br /><br /><br /><br />Building and Losing Tooth Enamel – What does What<br /><br />tooth enamel tips Did you know that tooth enamel, the outer layer of your teeth, is the hardest substance in your body? That means it should last a lifetime regardless of how you care for it right? Wrong.. Although our tooth enamel was naturally made very durable, it too can and will wear away in time without consistent care. So what can you do to help ensure that your enamel lasts a lifetime? Check out these tooth enamel saving tips below!<br /><br />1. Limit Sugary and Acidic Foods and Drinks<br />I know that you hear this all the time, but the reason that you do is that it’s VERY important! Sugar and acids are your tooth enamels worst enemy. Once sugar gets on your teeth it turns into acid which slowly but surely softens and eats away at your tooth enamel. The stickier the substance the more the sugar will stay on your teeth and erode your enamel. So stay away from sugary foods and drinks as much as possible, especially soda which has high amounts of both sugar and acid.<br /><br />2. Eat Foods that will help to Protect your Enamel<br />Did you know that calcium not only helps to build healthy bones, but also helps to counteract enamel eating acids in your mouth? So try to seek out a few more calcium rich foods in your diet such as milk, cheese and other dairy products in order to help keep those enamel eating acids at bay.<br /><br />3. Use Fluoride!<br />Fluoride is crucial in helping to not only protect your tooth enamel from erosive acids, but also in helping to restore tooth enamel. There are many sources to get fluoride such as your toothpaste, mouthwashes and even your tap water. A regular dose of restorative fluoride is crucial in winning the battle against enamel erosion.<br /><br />4. Don’t Over-Brush<br />If you brush your teeth too hard, or with bristles that are too hard this can slowly wear down your tooth enamel. Always make sure that you are following best brushing techniques and replacing your toothbrush when recommended.<br /><br />5. Treat Heartburn<br />When stomach acids reach up past the esophagus and into the mouth they can cause severe tooth decay if happening on a regular basis. The same thing goes for eating disorders such as bulimia. So if this is the case for you then seek treatment options ASAP, otherwise your tooth enamel may have to pay the ultimate price in the long run.<br /><br />Some other things to be aware of in trying to keep your tooth enamel for life would be to not swim in over chlorinated pools (too much chlorine can erode your tooth enamel), avoid grinding your teeth, dry mouth, and of course, be sure to see your dentist at least twice a year for a thorough cleaning. Take these tips to heart and “get your smile on” for a lifetime!Advance Teeth Whitening. Performed by a proffessional. Excellent service, and best results achieved. Up to 14 shades lighter and more. Superior product and latest technology used. FDA approved.<br />The teeth are then coated with the whitening solution on the front surface of the tooth. Your office may choose to use either hydrogen peroxide orcarbamide peroxide as the bleaching agent. Many whitening products require a curing light or laser to be used to add heat to the solution to activate the peroxide. It will then be left on the teeth for 30 to 60 minutes, or reapplied in specific increments of time for up to one hour, depending on the brand.<br /><br />Once the optimum shade has been reached, or the maximum application time has passed, the teeth are rinsed with water and a fluoride application may be used to help ease the sensitivity some people experience with tooth whitening.<br /><br />You will be instructed to avoid foods and beverages that have a high level of pigment, such as coffee, tomato sauce or juice, yellow mustard, or red wine, and tobacco use for 24 hours after the procedure to allow the enamel pores to close to prevent re-staining.Bleaching vs. Whitening: What's the Difference?<br />According to the FDA, the term
The term "whitening," on the other hand, refers to restoring a tooth's surface color by removing dirt and debris. So any product that cleans (like a toothpaste) is technically considered a whitener. Of course, the term whitening sounds better than bleaching, so it is more frequently used – even when describing products that contain bleach.

Why Teeth Whitening? Examining Enamel
Most of us start out with sparkling white teeth, thanks to their porcelain-like enamel surface. Composed of microscopic crystalline rods, tooth enamel is designed to protect the teeth from the effects of chewing, gnashing, trauma and acid attacks caused by sugar. But over the years enamel is worn down, becoming more transparent and permitting the yellow color of dentin – the tooth's core material – to show through.

During routine chewing, dentin remains intact while millions of micro-cracks occur in the enamel. It is these cracks, as well as the spaces between the crystalline enamel rods, that gradually fill up with stains and debris. As a result, the teeth eventually develop a dull, lackluster appearance.

Teeth whitening removes the stains and debris, leaving the enamel cracks open and exposed. Some of the cracks are quickly re-mineralized by saliva, while others are filled up again with organic debris.

Tooth Discoloration: The Two Types of Tooth Stains
There are two categories of staining as it relates to the teeth: extrinsic staining and intrinsic staining.
Extrinsic stains are those that appear on the surface of the teeth as a result of exposure to dark-colored beverages, foods and tobacco, and routine wear and tear. Superficial extrinsic stains are minor and can be removed with brushing and prophylactic dental cleaning. Stubborn extrinsic stains can be removed with more involved efforts, like teeth bleaching. Persistent extrinsic stains can penetrate into the dentin and become ingrained if they are not dealt with early." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-H_9C6rB20DM/VBrtD48eUKI/AAAAAAAAACc/q1ZzonPtT_s/tw3.jpg" width="100" height="100" />
Summer Hair Rehab<br />Is your summertime fun in the sun taking a toll on your hair? From color fading to turning once-healthy hair into a dull, dry mess, too much sun leads to lots of bad hair days.<br /><br />Add in exposure to chlorine and saltwater and your hair needs some rehab, stat! We’ve got the solutions to bring your hair back from the brink!<br /><br />How Sun Damages Hair<br />Few things can be as enjoyable as a warm, sunny summer day spent outdoors. But as nice as a sunny day makes us feel, too much sun exposure can be nearly as bad for hair as it is for skin!<br /><br />When sunlight hits hair, it immediately begins breaking down hair’s protective layer, the cuticle. Think of this layer like shingles on a roof; what happens when the shingles degrade? Your roof lets unwanted substances (like water) in, and damage occurs.<br /><br />As the sun breaks down hair’s cuticle layer, it exposes the more delicate inner portion of the hair, which is even more vulnerable to damage, including protein breakdown (hair is mostly composed of dead proteins) and color loss, whether hair is dyed or not. (Source: http://goo.gl/3eWY0i.)<br /><br />With repeated, ongoing exposure to UVA and UVB radiation from the sun, your hair gradually becomes weaker, breaks easily, and its texture changes from silky-smooth to dry and rough. (Source: http://goo.gl/zB1lmQ.)<br /><br />It’s even worse if you dye or highlight your hair! Hair color fades due to oxidation brought on by sun exposure, so gray hair can become “bleached”, silver-white hair can take on a brassy or yellowish tinge, reds lose their vibrancy, brunette hair goes drab, and hair becomes dry, frizzy, and generally a lot less manageable from the cascade of damage. A hat is looking pretty good right about now! (Source: http://goo.gl/STQ2TA.)<br /><br />How Chlorine Damages Hair<br />Chlorine is an effective disinfectant necessary to keep swimming pool water clean, but it does a number on skin, eyes, and especially hair that’s not protected by a silicone-based product (see recommended options below) or a swim cap.<br /><br />A swim cap isn’t the most attractive option nor is it a bulletproof shield against chlorinated water, but can significantly protect hair from the ravages of chlorine.<br /><br />One other thing you can do before putting on a swim cap and silicone serum is to wet your hair with fresh tap water. Hair can only take on so much water at once, so it’s best to have most of that water be from the tap, not the pool!<br /><br />What about blonde hair turning green from chlorine? Actually, that’s a myth. According to chemistry expert Anne Marie Helmenstine, Ph.D, “It isn't the chlorine that turns blonde hair green. Oxidized metals in the water bind to the protein in the hair shaft and deposit their color.<br /><br />The metal that produces the green tint is copper. The bleach that is added to a pool may be responsible for oxidizing the metal, but it's not the cause of the color.”<br /><br />So what can you do if your hair turns green after a swim? Simple: Use a shampoo that chelates (binds with) the metallic elements, allowing them to be rinsed away, taking the green tinge with it!<br /><br />A great example of an inexpensive chelating shampoo is Suave Daily Clarifying Shampoo, sold in most drugstores.<br /><br />How Saltwater Damages Hair<br />Most would agree that saltwater exposure doesn’t take the same toll on hair as chlorine does, but that doesn’t mean saltwater is off the hook!<br /><br />True to its name, saltwater contains salt along with other minerals (like chloride and magnesium) that can rough up the cuticle layer and cause the hair shaft to swell and feel dry.<br /><br />It’s the swelling and resulting roughening of hair’s texture that makes all of those “beach” or “surf” sprays work when used to create textured, tousled-looking waves or to add a feeling of thickness to fine hair.<br /><br />On the ingredient list for almost all of these products you’ll see a high amount of either sodium chloride or magnesium chloride to approximate what hair is exposed to when its wet (or damp) from saltwater.<br /><br />You can reduce the damage from saltwater exposure much the same way you reduce hair damage from chlorine in pools: Protect your hair with a bathing cap, drench it in silicone serum (or a good leave-in conditioner) and, as soon as you exit the ocean, make a beeline to a shower so you can thoroughly rinse your hair with tap water.<br /><br />Tip: Do NOT let saltwater-drenched hair dry naturally in sunlight. Doing so gives already compromised hair a double dose of damage that can lead to hair breakage and tangles.<br /><br />Sun Protection for Hair?<br />Some hair-care products advertise that they contain UV filters to protect hair from sun damage. Unlike sunscreens for skin, hair-care products are not permitted by the United States FDA to list SPF ratings, as there’s no reliable way to measure how much sun protection such products would provide.<br /><br />They likely provide some protection, but likely not enough to rely on them; after all, how long would they really hold up with all hair goes through, and that’s assuming the sunscreen ingredients can deposit and uniformly hold to the length of each hair!<br /><br />There are studies in which a swatch of dyed hair is covered with sunscreen ingredients, then placed under UVA/UVB light, and after a period of time measured for deterioration and color fading. The sunscreen ingredients absolutely prevented damage. But that kind of study doesn't reflect how the product is actually used by consumers. Who is going to slather sunscreen on their hair then just leave it, doing nothing else to their hair afterward? (Source: http://goo.gl/UXfCMI.)<br /><br />What you can do to help reduce the damage is get into the habit of wearing stylish, vented hats on long days outdoors when you know you’ll be in direct sunlight.<br /><br />Not a hair person? We suggest misting your hair with any of the alcohol-based spray-on sunscreens rated SPF 30 or greater.<br /><br />Although it’s true the alcohol isn’t the best for hair, it evaporates quickly and keeps the active sunscreen ingredients from weighing hair down. Do this as the last step once your hair is styled, just like applying hairspray, and reapply throughout the day when you know you’ll be in the sun for long periods.<br /><br />Recommended Products for Summer Hair<br />Surprisingly, research has shown that using leave-on products that contain various silicones (such as dimethicone or trimethylsiloxysilicate) can help reduce fading of dyes hair due to sun exposure.  So, by all means slick a silicone serum or spray through hair before hitting the beach. (Source: http://goo.gl/1t8Cy2.)<br /><br />A few we like:<br />• Josie Maran Argan Oil Hair Serum (great for all hair types, but apply sparingly on fine hair)<br />• Nexxus Pro-mend Smoothing Shine Serum (great for normal to slightly thick hair)<br />• Got2b Glossy Anti-Frizz Shine Serum (great for thick, coarse hair)<br /><br />As for shampoos, even if your hair isn’t normally dry, switch to conditioning formulas instead of those that are more designed to remove buildup. Exception: If you routinely expose your hair to chlorine (and, as mentioned above, you can prevent this by donning a swim cap before getting in the pool) be sure to wash with a shampoo that can remove the chlorine buildup.<br /><br />We like Triswim Shampoo, as it’s a gentle, non-stripping formula that also helps remove chlorine odor.<br /><br />Conditioning shampoos to try include Garnier Fructis Triple Nutrition Fortifying Shampoo for Dry/Damaged Hair, Redken All Soft Shampoo, and Desert Essence Coconut Shampoo Nourishing for Dry Hair.<br /><br />Turning to conditioners, weather-beaten hair needs pampering formulas appropriate for your hair type. Here are some great options, all of which detangle and work for color-treated hair, too:<br /><br />For fine hair:<br />• Joico Moisture Recovery Conditioner<br />• Redken All Soft Conditioner (concentration application from mid-length to ends)<br />• UltraSwim Ultra Repair Conditioner<br /><br />For thick, coarse hair:<br />• Neutrogena Triple Moisture Daily Deep Conditioner<br />• Goldwell Kerasilk Ultra Rich Care Treatment for Dry, Damaged & Unmanageable Hair<br />• Desert Essence Coconut Conditioner Nourishing for Dry Hair<br /><br />Leave-in conditioners for days in the sun:<br />• Dove Pure Care Dry Oil Restorative Hair Treatment (best for normal to thick, coarse, or highly processed hair)<br />• Nexxus Humectress Luxe Ultimate Moisturizing Leave-in Spray (best for normal to fine or thin hair)<br />• Rusk Sensories Smoother Conditioner, Passionflower & Aloe (all hair types)<br /><br />#PaulasChoice #HairCare #BeautyTalk  
The Most Natural Organic Pool You Can Build Yourself  http://bit.ly/1ohGNIs<br /><br />There are many reasons to avoid chlorinated pools, most of all due to your health and the environment. Natural pools allow nature to provide hygienic water for swimming, and the vibrant ecology of plants and animals conditions the water so there is no need for any chemical disinfectants. These pools are healthy for people and wildlife. In fact the water quality in a natural pool is so good, many are well within drinking water standards.<br /><br />Scientists have known for decades that along with the good that comes with disinfecting water with chlorine, chemicals called disinfection byproducts can also be formed when chlorine reacts with organic substances like human skin and residues from body care products.<br /><br />Why is absorbing chlorine through the skin thought to be so dangerous? When you swallow water, you can count on the liver to filter out many toxins – but when something gets absorbed through your skin, it goes straight into the circulatory system.<br /><br />Studies have shown that drinking, bathing or swimming in chlorinated water may increase the risk of bladder cancer. Chemicals, most commonly chlorine, used to disinfect water can produce by-products that have been tied to increased cancer risk.<br /><br />Organic Pools<br /><br />The nutrient level in an organic pool is carefully restricted so competition for the limiting nutrient (usually phosphorous) is fierce. In these circumstances, pond plants outperform algae, keeping it supressed and barely hanging in at the margins. A pond, low in nutrients, is a healthy environment for wildlife. An organic pool is teeming with life. If an alien micro-organism, a human pathogen for instance, enters the water, it faces battalions of hungry pond dewelling micro-organisms to either starve it out of existence, or devour it. A water analysis of this pond water showed that it contained zero organisms of e coli. per litre of water.<br /><br />Swimming in a Natural pool among flowering plants of lilies, iris and marsh marigolds is a celebration of life. Soothing your limbs and mind and skin and eyes, it seems every cell in your body is telling you – this is the way swimming should be. Natural Pools work entirely with nature to provide hygienic water for swimming.<br /><br />More  http://bit.ly/1ohGNIs
The
Product Review from Bicycle.net on  ASEA<br /><br />Before we tell you what ASEA is lets talk about what ASEA is not.<br />ASEA is not a pharmaceutical. It is not a drug. It is not dangerous. It is not toxic. It is not doping. It is not a vitamin. It is not anything you have ever seen before.<br /><br />www.redoxsports.3MinutePeek.com<br /><br />So then you ask, what is ASEA? Well, ASEA is the greatest supplement to come along to boost sports performance in the history of sports performance. And we know what you are thinking; “I have heard that before.” So have we, and that is why we were complete and total skeptics when we were first told about ASEA. The old too good to be true seemed to fit the claims that ASEA was making. But guess what? The claims are fact. The product works, and in both the lab, and on the bike, ASEA exceeds all expectations. With huge increases in VO2max and lactic acid flushing by 5 to 10%.<br />ASEA is classified as a supplement, with only two ingredients. They are distilled water and sodium chloride, and yes you heard that correct, only two ingredients. So then you have to be asking how does distilled water and sodium chloride improve my performance? Redox Signaling, that is how. So lets dig a little deeper into what<br /><br />Redox Signaling is.<br /><br />Redox Signaling is the science of how the body repairs itself on a molecular level. We talked to the ASEA expert Dr. Gary Samuelson (who wrote the book “How The Body Heals Itself”) about Redox Signaling and how it effects the body. We will try to simplify the very complicated science what we learned. At a cellular level, the body produces two different types of reactive molecules that support virtually all of the functions of the immune system and tissue regeneration response. These reactive molecules are naturally created in the body during the metabolism of sugar that produces ATP, the body’s primary source of energy. They participate in intra- and inter-cellular damage-control communications, activation of antioxidants, cellular protection and defense against toxins and free radicals, and in the healing response.<br /><br />The human body is constantly working to maintain cellular health by balancing these reactive molecules to rid the body of harmful components and to clean up the oxidative stress and free radical damage that occurs at the cellular level. When these reactive molecules are in the proper balance, the immune system and healing process function at their optimal level.<br /><br />In independent studies, it was shown that ASEA when in contact with living cells increased the efficiency of some of our body’s most important native antioxidants (Glutathione and SOD) more than 500%<br /><br />It should be noted that ASEA has done a very large amount of studies that back their claims. Below we have linked to some we feel are of importance to the cyclist looking to get as much information as possible;<br /><br />* Independent Drug Testing – Nothing found in ASEA is classified as a banned substance<br />* ASEA Endurance Trial<br />* Reactive Molecule Verification<br />* ASEA Safety Report<br />* Independent Quality Assurance Declaration for ASEA<br />So how has ASEA worked out for Bicycle.net? Well, I can honestly say that I am completely amazed by the improvements that I have been able to make in not only my during the race recovery, but also my overnight recovery. I am a life long CAT4 criterium racer who at best has been a middle of the pack, hang on for your life, hope to get my heart rate down and finish racer. But not any more. I am now able to help dictate the speed and pace of a race.<br /><br />> During a race I found that I was able to lower my heart rate much faster than before. Before ASEA I would get my heart rate up to 186 bpm, and find it next to impossible to get it back down as I slide to the back of the peloton. But now I find that after a big effort on the front of the peloton I can get my heart rate back down around 50% faster than before. In the last crit race I did I was able to attempt to breakaway three times (yeah, they caught me every time, but that is another story for another time) and still recover and flush the lactic acid out of my screaming legs while still in the top 15 of the peloton.<br /><br />> My max power output increased at the same time my heart rate dropped about 10 bpm lower than before ASEA. I am also able to maintain my higher power output and lower heart rate for a longer period of time.<br /><br />> While on ASEA I felt that my body’s ability to recover overnight was greatly enhanced. In fact I have found myself going on harder and harder training rides and still feeling as if my body was at top performance for the next training ride.<br /><br />> I have always had a sensitive digestive system and would get stomach cramps drinking fluid on the bike. But since taking ASEA I have been able to drink enough fluid to replenish my body without getting cramps. In fact I was able to nail my hydration last November when I did an Ironman Triathlon, and while others were double over with cramps I was in digestive heaven. I even took ASEA while I was in the Ironman on both the bike and the run.<br /><br />> There is this hill climb I do on a weekly basis in which my best time ever before ASEA was 17 minutes flat. After taking ASEA I was able to lower my PR on the climb to 15 minutes and 20 seconds. And without feeling as if I put out any more effort than before. I had friends who I usually ride with me ask what I was taking because I was a different rider. When I told them about ASEA most just shrugged and passed it off, but the one’s who did not and gave it a try are seeing the same level of improved results that i have.<br /><br />> ASEA recommends that you take it 2 ounces in the morning and 2 ounces at night. I have been taking it 1 ounce in the morning, and 1 ounce at night, and on race days I take 4 ounces the night before, and 4 ounces on race morning. Seemed to work great for me.<br /><br />> The only thing I can say about ASEA that would be a small negative. And that is the smell and taste of chlorine. It has the smell of chlorine (from the sodium chloride) and a very slight taste of pool water. But after taking it for a few weeks I did not even notice the chlorine taste anymore and at this point it is part of my daily ritual. For the record the product does not have chlorine in it, and it will not hurt you any way.<br /><br />I was so tempted to keep ASEA a secret for as long as possible so that I can keep that competitive edge over the peloton. But with all great products, the word gets out, and Bicycle.net wanted to keep you on the cutting edge of sports performance. Once you try ASEA you will have to make the same decision, keep it to yourself and your teammates or share it with everyone.<br /><br />To keep with our policy of full disclosure, it is important to know that ASEA is a MLM (multi level marketing) company. But you do not have to sell ASEA to use ASEA. You can just go to a distributor and buy from them. But if you are the entrepreneur type, you certainly could try to build a business around ASEA.<br /><br />www.redoxsports.3MinutePeek.com
10 Reasons to Use a Shower Filter<br /><br />1- The EPA has stated that every household in the United States has elevated levels of chloroform in the air due to chlorine released from showering water.<br /><br />2- Tap water often contains at least as much, if not more, chlorine than is recommended for use in swimming pools.<br /><br />3- More chlorine enters the body through dermal absorption and inhalation while showering than through drinking tap water.<br /><br />4- The chlorine in showering water has harsh, drying effects on skin and hair.<br /><br />5- Skin pores widen while showering, making dermal absorption of chlorine and other chemicals possible.<br /><br />6- The chlorine in showering water can cause rashes and other skin irritations when absorbed by the skin.<br /><br />7- Chemicals in showering water vaporize at a much faster rate than the actual water. Thus, the steam in a shower contains a much higher concentration of chemicals than the water itself.<br /><br />8- Inhaled chemicals make their way into the bloodstream much more quickly than ingested chemicals, without the added filtration benefits of digestion.<br /><br />9- More water contaminants are released into the air of a home from the shower than from any other source.<br /><br />10- Chlorine is a suspected cause of breast cancer. Women suffering from breast cancer are all found to have 50-60 percent more chlorine in their breast tissue than healthy women.<br /><br />http://www.watermart.com/<br />http://bit.ly/17pVEI5
There are three things needed in order for galvanic corrosion to occur:
1. Electrochemically dissimilar metals must be present
2. These metals must be in electrical contact, and
3. The metals must be exposed to an electrolyte (salt in solution)
In a swimming pool all three of these exist due to the high TDS from the salt content of the water. The electrochemical cells in most chlorine generators are made of titanium which is listed on the Galvanic Corrosion Chart as a nobler metal. Most pools contain some copper in the system as well in the heat exchanger or in any brass fittings or pipe that may be in the system. Copper is a less noble metal than titanium and thus it corrodes as a result of the electrolysis in the high salt solution. This leaves black stains and debris in the pool. Copper is also rendered insoluble in the water. Copper in the water will appear as a green translucent color.
The simple solution to solve this problem is to find another less noble metal to use as a sacrificial anode that corrodes but doesn’t cause staining. When differing metals are added to salt water one metal acts as a cathode this is the nobler of the two. Titanium would be one example of a more cathodic or noble metal. The other metal may be more anodic or less noble. An example of this would be copper.
Galvanic corrosion occurs because when these two metals are in salt water with an electrical current the weaker less noble metal (copper) will corrode faster than normal. Also the stronger more noble metal (titanium) will corrode much slower than normal. It has been found in various marine industries that the addition of zinc in these types of systems prevents the corrosion of copper and stops the staining.
Zinc is very low on the galvanic chart and is one of the most anodic metals found. In salt chlorine pools zinc can be added as a solid weight into the skimmer or attached in the circulation system. This slows or stops the corrosion of copper. If the water is discolored from copper it is advised to use a metal removal product along with the zinc to remove the current discoloration and prevent reoccurrence. Most metal products on the market tend to be phosphate based and this too can cause problems in a salt chlorine generator. When selecting a metal product use a phosphate free product.
What about purple haze?
Another mystery in both salt generator and regular pools is the occurrence of a strange purple coloring and debris. This is due to high levels of cyanuric acid and insoluble copper in the water. If pH and alkalinity go low than copper cyanurate is formed leaving a purple residue along the water line and around lights and steps. The solution here is to lower cyanuric acid down to 35ppm to 50ppm and adjust up the alkalinity and pH. Also, the addition of zinc will help keep copper from corroding into the water.
These simple methods should help clear the mystery and remove the stains.


Terry Arko has more than 30 years of experience in the swimming pool and spa industry, working in service, repair, retail sales, chemical manufacturing, customer service, sales and product development. He is also a Certified Pool Operator and CPO Instructor through the National Swimming Pool Foundation. Arko is currently the recreational product specialist for SeaKlear Pool and Spa Products, a subsidiary of Halosource Inc., a clean water technology company based in Bothell, Wash. He can be reached via e-mail at tarko@seaklear.com.">Mystery Stains in Salt Generator Pools<br />By Terry Arko<br />Salt chlorine pools have become quite popular for their convenience. There are no hazardous chemicals on site, water is sanitized and oxidized automatically. There are little to no chloramines. Many users of salt generators claim softer feeling water with less chemical odor and no dry or irritated skin.<br />Along with the report of these benefits, some have also reported some strange phenomena as well. These include things like discolored water, strange stains throughout the pool that are hard to remove and prevent. Stains appearing in salt pools include:<br />• Black flecks on pool bottom<br />• Black staining on ladders and light rings<br />• Reoccurring stains and discoloration on light rings around steps or rails and discolored water.<br />• Purple haze and debris in pool water<br />These stains seem to be a mystery, however in salt pools with high TDS they are due to a simple chemical reaction known as Galvanic Corrosion. To understand this electro chemical reaction a simple understanding of the technology of chlorine generators is first needed.<br />Chlorine generators work using a process known as electrolysis. In nature chlorine is found primarily in the chloride ion, which is a component of salt found in the earth or the oceans. Electrolysis is the means of generating chemical products from their native state. A salt generator works by passing electricity through a solution of sodium chloride to produce chlorine as a disinfectant or sanitizer.<br />The most popularly used chlorine generators are the in-line type. In these systems salt water is circulated over electrochemical cells. The cells convert the sodium chloride to free available chlorine. The cells used in these systems are typically made of titanium. Though it may seem new the technology of splitting molecules via electrolysis goes back all the way to the 1700s.<br />History of electrolysis<br />• 1789 - First use of electricity to separate compounds- electrolysis<br />• 1800 - First device to generate chlorine using electricity developed by Cruickshank<br />• 1830 - Faraday used brine (salt water) to produce chlorine gas (this occurs at the anode positive electrode cell) hydrogen gas and sodium hydroxide were also produced (at the cathode negative electrode cell)<br />How galvanic corrosion occurs in swimming pools:<br />Galvanic corrosion occurs when dissimilar metals exist in a high TDS solution such as a salt generator pool. Some metals are nobler and more cathodic meaning positive currents flow from these and they tend to steal electrons from the less noble anodic or negative metals.<br />A Galvanic Corrosion Chart is used in industries that work with fluids and metals such as cooling towers. The Galvanic Corrosion Chart shows that the There are three things needed in order for galvanic corrosion to occur:
1. Electrochemically dissimilar metals must be present
2. These metals must be in electrical contact, and
3. The metals must be exposed to an electrolyte (salt in solution)
In a swimming pool all three of these exist due to the high TDS from the salt content of the water. The electrochemical cells in most chlorine generators are made of titanium which is listed on the Galvanic Corrosion Chart as a nobler metal. Most pools contain some copper in the system as well in the heat exchanger or in any brass fittings or pipe that may be in the system. Copper is a less noble metal than titanium and thus it corrodes as a result of the electrolysis in the high salt solution. This leaves black stains and debris in the pool. Copper is also rendered insoluble in the water. Copper in the water will appear as a green translucent color.
The simple solution to solve this problem is to find another less noble metal to use as a sacrificial anode that corrodes but doesn’t cause staining. When differing metals are added to salt water one metal acts as a cathode this is the nobler of the two. Titanium would be one example of a more cathodic or noble metal. The other metal may be more anodic or less noble. An example of this would be copper.
Galvanic corrosion occurs because when these two metals are in salt water with an electrical current the weaker less noble metal (copper) will corrode faster than normal. Also the stronger more noble metal (titanium) will corrode much slower than normal. It has been found in various marine industries that the addition of zinc in these types of systems prevents the corrosion of copper and stops the staining.
Zinc is very low on the galvanic chart and is one of the most anodic metals found. In salt chlorine pools zinc can be added as a solid weight into the skimmer or attached in the circulation system. This slows or stops the corrosion of copper. If the water is discolored from copper it is advised to use a metal removal product along with the zinc to remove the current discoloration and prevent reoccurrence. Most metal products on the market tend to be phosphate based and this too can cause problems in a salt chlorine generator. When selecting a metal product use a phosphate free product.
What about purple haze?
Another mystery in both salt generator and regular pools is the occurrence of a strange purple coloring and debris. This is due to high levels of cyanuric acid and insoluble copper in the water. If pH and alkalinity go low than copper cyanurate is formed leaving a purple residue along the water line and around lights and steps. The solution here is to lower cyanuric acid down to 35ppm to 50ppm and adjust up the alkalinity and pH. Also, the addition of zinc will help keep copper from corroding into the water.
These simple methods should help clear the mystery and remove the stains.


Terry Arko has more than 30 years of experience in the swimming pool and spa industry, working in service, repair, retail sales, chemical manufacturing, customer service, sales and product development. He is also a Certified Pool Operator and CPO Instructor through the National Swimming Pool Foundation. Arko is currently the recreational product specialist for SeaKlear Pool and Spa Products, a subsidiary of Halosource Inc., a clean water technology company based in Bothell, Wash. He can be reached via e-mail at tarko@seaklear.com." src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-g0ACou23wH8/UlYrGBSdNCI/AAAAAAAAAXg/YJPrBxfz12g/images%252520%2525281%252529.jpg" width="100" height="100" />

The good news is that if you were to drink a glass of water infested with N. fowleri amoeba, you would not get a brain infection.

It infects people by getting into your nose. This happens most often when people are diving, water skiing, or performing water sports in which water is forced into the nose. But infections have occurred in people who dunked their heads in hot springs or who cleaned their nostrils with untreated tap water.

A person infected with N. fowleri amoeba cannot spread the infection to another person.

How Do Amoebas Get in the Brain?

N. fowleri amoebas are attracted to the chemicals that nerve cells use to communicate with one another. Once in the nose, the amoebas travel through the olfactory nerve (the nerve connected with sense of smell) into the frontal lobe of the brain.

How Long Until Symptoms of Brain-Eating Amoeba Appear?

It takes two to 15 days for symptoms to appear after N. fowleri amoebas enter the nose. Death usually occurs three to seven days after symptoms appear. The average time to death is 5.3 days from symptom onset. Only a handful of patients worldwide have been reported to have survived an infection.

What Are the First Symptoms Someone Might Have?

Symptoms of PAM are not specific to this disease. At first, PAM may seem like viral meningitis. Symptoms include:

*headache
*fever
*stiff neck
*loss of appetite
*vomiting
*altered mental state
*seizures
*coma
*There may also be hallucinations, drooping eyelid, blurred vision, and loss of the sense of taste.

Is There a Treatment for Infection With Brain-Eating Amoeba?

The right treatment isn't clear. A number of drugs kill N. fowleri amoebas in the test tube. But even when treated with these drugs, very few patients survive.

Is There a Rapid Test for Infection With Brain-Eating Amoeba?

There is no rapid test for infection with brain-eating amoeba. It can take weeks to identify the amoeba.

Are Certain Groups Affected More Than Others?

Over 60% of cases are in children age 13 or younger. About 80% of cases are in males.

How Can I Protect Myself Against Brain-Eating Amoeba?

At the community level:

1. Functional community water supply systems with adequate sterilisation e.g chlorination of water supplies.

2. Informing people about preventive measures to eradicate/control infection.

3. Chlorination of swimming pools and banning ofswimming in contaminated water.

4. Periodic sampling of water samples and treatment/abolition of contaminated/contamination prone water collections.

5. Health awareness/education campaign.

At individual level:

1. Sterilisation of water by boiling/ chlorination etc, if community water purification system is unreliable.

2. Avoid swimming underwater, diving, water skiing, and jumping in warm, still waters during summer. It also makes sense to wear a nose clip when swimming, boating, or playing in or on warm waters.

3. Avoid stirring up mud while taking part in such activities.

4. Use pure uncontaminated water for bathing/ washing face and during ablution. Avoid entry of water in nose as much as possible.

5. You can also use water that has been boiled for one minute (three minutes at high elevations) and then cooled. And you can filter the water using filters with pores not larger than 1 micron (1 micrometer). Do not forget to clean/change filters periodically.

Briefly personal actions to reduce the risk of Naegleria fowleri infection should focus on limiting the amount of water going up the nose and lowering the chances that Naegleria fowleri may be in the water.">NAEGLERIA FOWLERI (THE BRAIN EATING AMOEBA)<br /><br />Cases of Naegleriasis have been occuring in Karachi for the past few years.<br /><br />What Is a Brain-Eating Amoeba?<br /><br />Amoebas are single-celled organisms. The so-called brain-eating amoeba is a species discovered in 1965. It's formal name is Naegleria fowleri.<br /><br />There are several species of Naegleria but only the fowleri species causes human disease.<br /><br />N. fowleri is microscopic: 8 micrometers to 15 micrometers in size, depending on its life stage and environment. By comparison, a hair is 40 to 50 micrometers wide.<br /><br />Like other amoebas, Naegleria reproduces by cell division. When conditions aren't right, the amoebas become inactive cysts. When conditions are favorable, the cysts turn into trophozoites -- the feeding form of the amoeba.<br /><br />To reach their food, N. fowleri trophozoites temporarily grow tails (flagella) that allow them to swim. In this form they cannot eat, so they soon go back to the trophozoite stage.<br /><br />Where Are Brain-Eating Amoebas Found?<br /><br />Naegleria loves very warm water. It can survive in water as hot as 113 degrees Fahrenheit.<br /><br />These amoebas can be found in warm places around the globe. N. fowleri is found in:<br /><br />*Warm lakes, ponds, and rock pits<br />Mud puddles<br />*Warm, slow-flowing rivers, especially those with low water levels<br />*Untreated swimming pools and spas<br />*Untreated well water or untreated municipal water<br />*Hot springs and other geothermal water sources<br />*Thermally polluted water, such as runoff from power plants<br />*Aquariums<br />*Soil, including indoor dust<br />*It can be found in swimming pools or municipal waters if not properly treated.<br />*Naegleria can't live in salt water.<br /><br />How Do People Get Infected With Brain-Eating Amoeba?<br /><br />The term
The good news is that if you were to drink a glass of water infested with N. fowleri amoeba, you would not get a brain infection.

It infects people by getting into your nose. This happens most often when people are diving, water skiing, or performing water sports in which water is forced into the nose. But infections have occurred in people who dunked their heads in hot springs or who cleaned their nostrils with untreated tap water.

A person infected with N. fowleri amoeba cannot spread the infection to another person.

How Do Amoebas Get in the Brain?

N. fowleri amoebas are attracted to the chemicals that nerve cells use to communicate with one another. Once in the nose, the amoebas travel through the olfactory nerve (the nerve connected with sense of smell) into the frontal lobe of the brain.

How Long Until Symptoms of Brain-Eating Amoeba Appear?

It takes two to 15 days for symptoms to appear after N. fowleri amoebas enter the nose. Death usually occurs three to seven days after symptoms appear. The average time to death is 5.3 days from symptom onset. Only a handful of patients worldwide have been reported to have survived an infection.

What Are the First Symptoms Someone Might Have?

Symptoms of PAM are not specific to this disease. At first, PAM may seem like viral meningitis. Symptoms include:

*headache
*fever
*stiff neck
*loss of appetite
*vomiting
*altered mental state
*seizures
*coma
*There may also be hallucinations, drooping eyelid, blurred vision, and loss of the sense of taste.

Is There a Treatment for Infection With Brain-Eating Amoeba?

The right treatment isn't clear. A number of drugs kill N. fowleri amoebas in the test tube. But even when treated with these drugs, very few patients survive.

Is There a Rapid Test for Infection With Brain-Eating Amoeba?

There is no rapid test for infection with brain-eating amoeba. It can take weeks to identify the amoeba.

Are Certain Groups Affected More Than Others?

Over 60% of cases are in children age 13 or younger. About 80% of cases are in males.

How Can I Protect Myself Against Brain-Eating Amoeba?

At the community level:

1. Functional community water supply systems with adequate sterilisation e.g chlorination of water supplies.

2. Informing people about preventive measures to eradicate/control infection.

3. Chlorination of swimming pools and banning ofswimming in contaminated water.

4. Periodic sampling of water samples and treatment/abolition of contaminated/contamination prone water collections.

5. Health awareness/education campaign.

At individual level:

1. Sterilisation of water by boiling/ chlorination etc, if community water purification system is unreliable.

2. Avoid swimming underwater, diving, water skiing, and jumping in warm, still waters during summer. It also makes sense to wear a nose clip when swimming, boating, or playing in or on warm waters.

3. Avoid stirring up mud while taking part in such activities.

4. Use pure uncontaminated water for bathing/ washing face and during ablution. Avoid entry of water in nose as much as possible.

5. You can also use water that has been boiled for one minute (three minutes at high elevations) and then cooled. And you can filter the water using filters with pores not larger than 1 micron (1 micrometer). Do not forget to clean/change filters periodically.

Briefly personal actions to reduce the risk of Naegleria fowleri infection should focus on limiting the amount of water going up the nose and lowering the chances that Naegleria fowleri may be in the water." src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-M0wvGwN_uIo/UdASihbr_GI/AAAAAAAAXLM/SgfzvNr60wg/nigleria%252520Free-living_amebic_infections.png" width="100" height="100" />
Hi Everybody,<br />Remember all you pool owners that with all this rain we have been having here on the NOT so Sunshine Coast that the pool water will become diluted. So it is important to check the SALT levels of your pool. Low salt levels are detrimental to your salt chlorinator.<br />Remember it is cheaper to buy a few bags of Salt than to have to replace a Salt Cell!!!!:(<br /><br />Check the chlorine levels in the pool as well. You may need to add some chlorine to the water to stop it turning GREEN. Salt chlorinators are good for maintaining sanitation but sometimes they need a hand when the weather gets a bit rough.<br /><br />If you need a hand with your pool & you live on the Sunshine Coast<br />give me a call. I service most of the coast.<br />Steve
Salt? (Good, Bad or Indifferent)<br />Ok, I will try to be completely unbiased so that you don’t feel like I have an agenda. All the information I am about to share comes from a lot of research, sales pitches and more importantly having had a salt pool for 6 years. I can’t win on this particular subject because there are extreme prejudices on both sides. I just hope someone will take fact over fiction and judge for them selves what is best fit for them and their pool.<br />What is it? In a nutshell it is a piece of equipment that is install on the circulation system of your pool that produces chlorine in the form of hypochlorus acid, the killing form of chlorine. It does this because you added 3200 to 3600 ppm of salt to your pool water and when this salty water flows over the electrically charged plates in this unit, it produces a chemical reaction as follows.<br />Chemical Equation: NaCl + 2H2O = HOCl + NaOH + H2<br />The first 2 parts parts is Salt plus water then charged. The second part is what is created by this reaction. Hypochlorus acid (Chlorine) + sodium hydroxide + hydrogen gas. You know what the chlorine is/does, the second by product is sodium hydroxide and is known as lye or caustic soda which is the opposite of acid and is the basis for a lot of drain cleaner products. It is also the primary reason for the increase of ph in these pools with the compounded effect that salt already has on raising ph. The last part is hydrogen gas. Yes if you were wondering, this is the very explosive gas that blew up Hiroshima that started the nuclear cold war. It is very uncommon that an explosive  accident can happen with these units but it has happened and the stars all but had to be in alignment. Really nothing to be too concerned about because it is relatively easy to defend against.<br />On to the pros and cons of salt. The salesman that want you to spend your hard earned cash say things like it saves time and money and is Eco friendly.<br />Lets start with time, the time you spend on a normal pool is testing water, adding chemicals, skimming and brushing. That is all, nothing else except playing. On a salt pool you still have skim and brush so lets see if we save time with the other two items. Remember the other by product being made by the salt cell is sodium hydroxide? This causes the ph to rise at about 4-8 times faster than a normal pool. The chlorine that is produced by the cell is hypochlorus acid (which is a weak acid to begin with) is neutralized very quickly and easily by the sodium hydroxide produced at the same time and rapidly raising ph. With that said you need to test your water every week with out fail and add muratic acid every week with out fail or your chlorine produce by the generator will not work and one or two days of this high ph and and your pool goes green. So as far as saving the time of testing goes, you still have to do it no different than with a normal pool. Adding chemicals? As just stated you have to add acid every week period and in order to do it you have a second step that is added every week which is an acid demand test to know how much to add. Also with chemical adding, you still have to maintain stabilizer, shock every 7-10 days, phosphate remover as needed and now you have to maintain salt levels. So the only chemical you are saving on is chlorine itself but you’ve added the time and chemical of salt to the work load so time wise there is no time savings and in my experience there is a lot more time needed from adding extra steps to protecting finishes which we will talk about in a little while.<br />How about money? Do we save money with salt? On a normal pool your cost is electricity, chlorine, stabilizer (CYA), acid, shock and any other maintenance items like phosphate removers and algaecides. 1st we are adding an electrical component (therefore cost) to the pool so that goes up, although minimal. Yes we are technically getting rid of the chlorine cost (I found it easier to have a chlorine floater in my pool in case I missed adding my acid and the chlorine neutralized from the ph problems so I wouldn’t lose my pool to quickly before i realized I forgot to add my acid) so chlorine cost out. Typical chlorine pools cost about $25-$35 per month in the summer to about $5/mo in the winter for an average of about $185 per year. In southeast Texas you will put about 10-14 bags of replacement salt in a year after your initial cost plus change your salt cell every 3-5 years at $500.00. Both of these items come up to $192 per year. No savings there. All the other chemicals still need to be added as normal but your cost for acid will increase to about $6-$8 / mo. even through he winter months. So the reality is the cost in just chemicals is at best the same but more often than not more.<br />Eco friendly? Not!! Water your yard or plants with salt water and see what happens. Some municipalities are are starting to ban salt pools because of the impact on vegetation and the water districts concern as well as most municipalities require back washing to the sewer.<br />OK last thing is the part that the sales guys leave out and that is…….. the utter destruction and corrosive properties that salt has on everything mechanical that operates the pool and every metal or natural stone accessories that you have in or around your pool. At best you will have lime deposits on your grout that you are constantly fighting and at worst if it is any kind of metal it will be toast with in 2 years. I can go on and on about this part but I’m trying to be non bias which is hard to do since I had a salt pool for 6 years. Even the last 4 years when I had the everything dialed in to perfection, it still cost me more time, money and aggravation. See the picture for an example of corrosion of a customers pool we took over the maintenance on and he still wants to keep the salt. Go figure.<br />Alright, I really did want to be non bias but when I started trying to think of the positives, I just could not come up with any at all.<br />Next post will be some ideas for alternatives to straight chlorine pool.<br />Tony Goss<br />Pools By Goss<br />Goss Building, Inc.
WATER damaged laptop data recovery in Denver Colorado by QUBEX Data Recovery Denver Colorado<br /><br />This is another good example of water damaged laptop that came for data recovery to QUBEX Denver Data Recovery Colorado office. Owner said while enjoying the hot tub laptop was sitting on the side, owner fell asleep laptop was dipped in the tub. According to an owner laptop was immediately pulled out, battery disconnected, but obviously it was not much of a help after a dip... so he asked QUBEX engineers to help retrieve data from hard disk of this drowned laptop. Luckily laptop was not long enough under water and QUBEX was able to recover data off this water damaged laptop, however laptop itself was not repairable. Attached picture is part of a corroded motherboard from this laptop.<br /><br />P.S. Try not to bring your electronics in to the pool areas, not just because pools are for swimming... Air in pool areas usually contains high levels of chlorine gas or if salt water used then various evaporated salts and your laptop is using air for cooling itself pushing this air through its guts and as far as air with such contents is high oxidizer you may end up with failed hardware eventually, this process of course is a slow process but still it shortens your laptop life.<br /><br />http://www.merchantcircle.com/blogs/Qubex.Data.Recovery.720-319-7239<br />https://findery.com/Qubex?at=39.665442308708904%2C-104.81205940246582%2C13<br />http://www.facebook.com/pages/Qubex-Denver-Data-Recovery/473541326020759<br />http://www.facebook.com/pages/QUBEX-Denver-Colorado/348409301926825<br />http://www.denver.com/qubex-data-recovery-denver-colorado-b38630672<br />http://calendar.denverpost.com/aurora_co/venues/show/12220245-data-recovery-denver-colorado-by-qubex-data-recovery-solutions
New post (Chemical vs. Natural Swimming Pools) has been published on http://gd.is/fW3qTn<br />Natural swimming pools or living spas are much more common throughout Europe, but are increasingly becoming more popular in the United States. Now that the spring weather is beginning to surface, it’s time for Eco Brooklyn to open up our Living Pool for the swimming season. So how does this compare to tradition swimming pool maintenance? Like our design philosophy, Eco Brooklyn’s swimming hole should blend low energy costs with little to no waste or hazardous chemicals.<br />Here is a simple diagram from Inspiration Green that depicts exactly how natural swimming pools function.<br />Natural Filtration<br /><br />The first step in opening our natural spa is to turn on the tiny 100 watt water pump that feeds the soiled plants, bacteria, and critters that filter the pool’s water.<br />Next we turn on a very small aeration pump which enriches the water with oxygen, to encourage more plant growth and aerobic bacteria function.<br />Lastly Eco Brooklyn interns get to spend the morning scooping up algae that has accumulated over the winter. Adding some barley straw is also helpful in controlling algae by producing lignin, which is then converted to hydrogen peroxide in the presence of sunlight.<br /><br />So how does opening a chemically intensive pool compare?<br />Step one is controlling the pH by keeping it at 7.0 or slightly below. If the pH is above 7.5 the chlorine is only about 10% effective. In most cases this involves the addition muriatic acid.<br />Step two is to check the alkalinity, which should be between 80-140 ppm. Alkalinity is a measure of the water’s resistance to a change in pH. An improper balance of pH and alkalinity can reduce the effect of sanitation, cause cloudiness, and/ or deteriorate the concrete or siding.<br />Step three involves determining your Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) and Calcium Hardness. Both of these measurements will affect how corrosive the water is and often requires draining the pool.<br />Step four is backwashing the filter for cleaning when the gauge moves from 8-10 psi away from clean.<br />Step five comprises of cleaning the skimmer basket and scrubbing the walls of the pool weekly to prevent plaque build-up.<br />Lastly, running the filter and vacuum skimmer, often for a couple hours a day, for proper water sanitation is essential.<br />Considering the immense construction costs, the harsh chemicals additives, high energy pumps, and the endless hours of labor to produce and maintain a traditional swimming pool, it’s no wonder the Natural Pool phenomenon is catching on in America. The aquatic ecosystems are almost completely self-sustaining, and after the initial cost of construction you are basically done with the expenditure.
Eltham Leisure Centre<br />GLL Better - London<br />Biohazard<br /><br />At Eltham Pool in London there have been incidences of dangerously high bacterial levels, and dangerously high chlorine (?) levels, which resulted in temporary pool closure ! - so, if you don't want to damage your eyes and skin, or catch gastro-enteritis or something worse - then don't go to Eltham Pool.<br /><br />GLL/Better Pools and Gyms are NOT recommended<br /><br />for more information about Eltham Pool<br />see<br />http://greenwichleisurebetter.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/focus-on-eltham-centre.html
Eltham Leisure Centre<br />GLL Better - London<br />Biohazard<br /><br />At Eltham Pool in London there have been incidences of dangerously high bacterial levels, and dangerously high chlorine (?) levels, which resulted in temporary pool closure ! - so, if you don't want to damage your eyes and skin, or catch gastro-enteritis or something worse - then don't go to Eltham Pool.<br /><br />GLL/Better Pools and Gyms are NOT recommended<br /><br />for more information about Eltham Pool<br />see<br />http://greenwichleisurebetter.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/focus-on-eltham-centre.html


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GLOSSARY OF POOL TERMS from sw...

GLOSSARY OF POOL TERMS from swimmingpool.com #poolcare<br /><br />AIR-RELIEF VALVE: A manually-operated  valve located at the top of a filter tank for relieving the pressure inside the filter and removing the air inside the filter (bleeding the filter). Also known as a pressure-relief valve.<br /><br />ALGAE: Microscopic plant-like organisms that contain chlorophyll. Algae is nourished by carbon dioxide (CO2) and use sunlight to carry out photosynthesis. It can be introduced by rain or wind and grows in colonies, producing nuisance masses. Algae can harbor bacteria and can be slippery. There are thousands of known species of algae. The most common types of algae found in pools are black, blue-green, green and mustard .<br /><br />ALGAECIDES: Chemical compounds designed to kill, prevent and control algae.<br /><br />AUTOMATIC POOL CLEANER: A pool maintenance system that will agitate and/or vacuum debris from the pool interior automatically.<br /><br />BACKFLOW: The backing up of water through a pipe in the direction opposite to normal flow.<br /><br />BACKWASH: The process of thoroughly cleaning the filter by reversing the flow of water through it with the dirt and rinse water going to waste.<br /><br />BALANCERS: Chemical compound designed to prevent corrosion and staining by balancing the pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness in pool water.<br /><br />BROMIDE: A common term for a bromide salt used to supply bromide ions to the water so they may be oxidized or changed into hypobromous acid. Used as a disinfectant.<br /><br />BROMINE: A common name for a chemical compound containing bromine that is used as a disinfectant to destroy bacteria and algae in swimming pools and spas.<br /><br />CENTRIFUGAL PUMP: A pump consisting of an impeller fixed on a rotating shaft and enclosed in a casing or volute and having an inlet and a discharge connection. The rotating impeller creates pressure in the water by the velocity derived from the centrifugal force.<br /><br />CHECK VALVE: A mechanical device in a pipe that permits the flow of water or air in one direction only.<br /><br />CHEMICAL FEEDER: A device that dispenses chemicals into pool or hot tub water at a predetermined rate. Some dispense chlorine or bromine while others dispense pH-adjusting chemicals.<br /><br />CHLORINE NEUTRALIZER: A chemical used to make chlorine harmless. Used in test kits to counteract the bleaching effect of the chlorine or bromine in order to increase the accuracy of pool water tests. Sold as chlorine and bromine neutralizer, it is used to destroy excessive amounts of chlorine or bromine so the high levels will not affect swimmers.<br /><br />CHLORINE: A term used to describe any type of chlorine compound used as a disinfectant in swimming pool and hot tub water or to kill, destroy or control bacteria and algae. In addition, chlorine oxidizes ammonia and nitrogen compounds cause by swimmers.<br /><br />COPING: The cap or top lip on the pool or hot tub wall that provides a finished edge around the pool or spa.<br /><br />CORROSION: The etching, pitting or eating away of the pool or hot tub or equipment. Can be caused by improper water balance, misuse of acid or acidic products or from soft water.<br /><br />COVER, SOLAR: A cover that, when placed on the water's surface of a pool, hot tub or hot tub, increases the water temperature by absorption and transmission of solar radiation; reduces evaporation and prevents debris from entering the water.<br /><br />D.E.: Diatomaceous Earth — a porous substance used in certain types of pool filters.<br /><br />DRAIN: This term usually refers to a plumbing fitting installed on the suction side of the pump in pools, spas and hot tubs. Sometimes called the main drain, it is located in the deepest part of the pool, hot tub or hot tub. It does not function like a drain on a kitchen sink. Pool main drains do not allow the water to drain to waste but rather connect to the pump for circulation and filtration.<br /><br />FIBERGLASS: Finespun filaments of glass which are available in a rope or mat form. When used in a process with polyester resins, catalysts and hardeners, can be formed or molded into pools and spas.<br /><br />FILTER: A device that removes dissolved or suspended particles from water by recirculating the water through a porous substance (a filter medium or element). The three types of filters used in pools and spas are sand, cartridge and D.E. (diatomaceous earth).<br /><br />FILTRATION RATE: The rate at which the water is traveling through the filter, expressed in U.S. gallons per minute (gpm) per square foot of filter area.<br /><br />FLOW RATE: The quantity of water flowing past a designated point within a specified time, such as the number of gallons flowing past a point in 1 minute — also known as gallons per minute or gpm.<br /><br />GUNITE: A mixture of cement and sand sprayed onto contoured and supported surfaces to build a pool. Gunite is mixed and pumped to the site dry, and water is added at the point of application. Plaster is usually applied over the gunite.<br /><br />GUTTER: An overflow trough at the edge of the pool through which floating debris, oil and other
HAND SKIMMER: A screen attached to a frame which is then attached to a telescopic pole used to remove large floating debris, such as leaves and bugs, from the water's surface.

HEATER: A fossil-fueled, electric or solar device used to heat the water of a pool, hot tub or hot tub.

NEUTRALIZER: A chemical used to make chlorine or bromine harmless. Used in test kits to counteract the bleaching effect of the chlorine or bromine in order to increase the accuracy of pool water tests. Sold as chlorine and bromine neutralizer, it is used to destroy excessive amounts of chlorine or bromine so the high levels will not affect swimmers.

OXIDIZER: A non-chlorine shocking compound that removes or destroys built-up contaminants and chloramines in pool water without raising chlorine levels.

PUMP: A mechanical device, usually powered by an electric motor, which causes hydraulic flow and pressure for the purpose of filtration, heating and circulation of pool and hot tub water. Typically, a centrifugal pump is used for pools, spas and hot tubs.

PUMP CAPACITY: The volume of liquid a pump is capable of moving during a specified period of time. This is usually listed in gallons per minute or gpm.

pH: Abbreviation for Potential Hydrogen. Indicates the level of acidity or alkalinity of water on a scale ranging from 0-15. A low pH can cause etched plaster, metal corrosion and eye irritation. A high pH can cause scale formation, chlorine inefficiency and eye irritation. The ideal range for pH in swimming pools is typically 7.4 to 7.6.

SANITIZERS: Chemical compounds designed to kill bacteria, algae and other living organisms. Also protects water from the effects of the sun.

SHOCK TREATMENT: The practice of adding significant amounts of an oxidizing chemical -- (usually non-chlorine oxidizers, such as sodium persulfate or potassium peroxymonosulfate) -- to the water to destroy ammonia and nitrogen compounds caused by swimmers, the environment and/or weather.

SKIMMER: A device installed through the wall of a pool or hot tub that is connected to the suction line of the pump that draws water and floating debris in the water flow from the surface without causing much flow restriction.

SKIMMER BASKET: A removable, slotted basket or strainer placed in the skimmer on the suction side of the pump, which is designed to trap floating debris in the water flow from the surface without causing flow restriction.

TEST KIT: An apparatus or device used to monitor specific chemical residuals, levels, constituents or demands in pool or hot tub water. The most common pool and hot tub water tests are: pH, total alkalinity, free available chlorine, water hardness, cyanuric acid, iron and copper.

TURBIDITY: The cloudy condition of the water due to the presence of extremely fine particles in suspension that cannot be trapped by the filter because they are too small. Adding a clarifier, such as an organic polymer or alum, will coagulate the particles and make the filter more efficient.

WATER CLARIFIER: Also called coagulant or flocculant . A chemical compound used to gather (coagulate or agglomerate) or to precipitate suspended particles so they may be removed by vacuuming or filtration. There are two types; inorganic salts of aluminum (alum) and other metals or water-soluble organic polyelectrolytes.

WEIR: The small floating "door" on the side of the skimmer that faces the water over which water flows on its way to the skimmer. Adjusts automatically to small changes in water level to assure a continuous flow of water to the skimmer. The weir also prevents debris from floating back into the pool after the pump shuts off. Also known as a skimmer weir." width="100"/>

GLOSSARY OF POOL TERMS from swimmingpool.com #poolcare

AIR-RELIEF VALVE: A manually-operated  valv...

 
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How to teach a Dog to swim

Mo...

How to teach a Dog to swim<br /><br />Most dogs are not born knowing how to swim. Even the water retrievers, such as Labradors and Chesapeake Bay retrievers, must learn how to swim as puppies or young adults. Training a dog to swim is not necessarily a difficult task, but it does require a willing dog and water deep enough that the dog cannot touch bottom with his feet. Given their physical capability and mental capacity, many dogs can learn to swim in a lesson or two.<br /><br />Step 1<br /><br />Select your location carefully. If your dog’s only interaction with water is the bath tub, he may not be enthusiastic to approach the water at first. Introduce your dog to a small, quiet body of water with no waves or currents, such as a kiddie pool or a pond. A stream with a grassy bank is alright, as long as there is no discernible current.<br /><br />Step 2<br /><br />Allow your dog to approach the water gradually. Let him sniff the water and lap at it as he desires, as long as it is not chlorinated pool water.<br /><br />Step 3<br /><br />Encourage your dog to put his front feet in the water. Lure him in by taking several steps into the water ahead of him and offering him treats. A floating toy, particularly one stuffed with treats, works well.<br /><br />Step 4<br /><br />Put your dog’s life jacket, collar and vest on him. Allow him a few minutes to walk around with his jacket on until he is relaxed and wagging his tail.<br /><br />Step 5<br /><br />Walk your dog into the water gradually, leading him and coaxing him as needed. If he stops, allow him to relax again. If your dog is uncomfortable with the experience, his posture will be rigid, his head will be low and forward, and his tail will be down and possibly between his legs. He may grimace and whine, as well. If he takes this posture, speak quietly to him, but do not allow him to retreat from the water. Stroke his head, neck, and chest until he relaxes his posture and begins wagging his tail.<br /><br />Step 6<br /><br />Prepare for your dog’s reaction when his paws leave the bottom for the first time. Hold your arms under your dog’s midsection. Place one hand at the base of his ribcage and the other on his stomach. Hold his hips as close to level with the high point of his shoulders as possible. Raising his rear end will encourage him to kick with his hind legs and will prevent him from attempting to swim with only his front paws, which will tire him very quickly. If necessary, lure him with food or a toy to encourage him to extend his neck forward and to keep his head parallel to the water (See References 3).<br /><br />Step 7<br /><br />Walk along side your dog as he makes forward progress, supporting his ribcage and stomach. Hold his hips as close to level with the high point of his shoulders as possible. Keep supporting him until he is relaxed and is kicking purposefully with all four legs. If he begins to swim without encouragement or nervousness, remove his leash from his collar.<br /><br />#dogs #doglovers #dogsareawesome #dogsrule #dogsofgoogleplus #dogsofgoogle   #animals #animallovers #animalphotography #dogphotography #dogsphotography #dogsphotographs #dogpictures #dogpictureoftheday #dogpicoftheday #dogpics #dogslife   #gif #animals #animallovers #cute #cuteanimals #cuteness #cutenessoverload #animaloftheday #gifoftheday #gifofthedayindeed #gifoftheweek

How to teach a Dog to swim

Most dogs are not born knowing how to swim. Even the water retrievers, s...

 
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Salt Systems (Salt-Chlorine Ge...

Salt Systems (Salt-Chlorine Generators) for Inground and Aboveground Swimming Pools<br /><br />You can say goodbye to harsh chemicals & chlorine odor, and irritated eyes when you use a salt system (Salt-chlorine generator) to sanitize your swimming pool. Salt chlorine generators use ordinary salt to naturally produce pure chlorine. By doing so, salt water chlorine generation provides the sanitization necessary to keep pool water clean without the need for handling or frequent monitoring of chlorine. As a result, pool owners who use salt chlorine generators can enjoy remarkable convenience and safety in addition to sparkling clean, crystal clear swimming water that's soft, silky - and much less effort than traditional sanitizers.<br /><br />Specialty Pool Products' line of swimming pool supplies includes a diverse selection of high quality swimming pool salt chlorine generators from trusted brand names such as Hayward, Jandy, Intex, Blue Essence and others. With today's models capable of sanitizing up to 50,000 gallons, every swimming pool owner can enjoy the benefits and advantages that come with using a salt chlorine generator to achieve and maintain beautifully clean, inviting swimming pool water.<br /><br />Salt-Chlorine Generators are safe for use in all pool surfaces, including fiberglass, vinyl, plaster, and concrete swimming pools and provide for easy yet effective pool maintenance. By evenly dispersing chlorine and by providing simple adjustment of chlorine output, salt chlorine generators allow pool owners to spend more time enjoying their pool rather than dealing with harsh, dangerous chemicals. Similarly, Salt Systems are exceptionally safe and easy to use, and will provide consistently clean, silky water. How do they work? Typically, salt systems utilize a natural electrolytic process to generate pure chlorine. The salt concentration is very low (less than a teaspoon per gallon of pool water), but it's sufficient to generate free chlorine, naturally! The chlorine continuously kills algae, bacteria & contaminants, then reverts back to salt & the process repeats. There's less time spent on maintenance, less money spent on chemicals and they're fast & easy to install on both new existing swimming pools.<br /><br />Specialty Pool Products' selection of salt water chlorine generators includes models for both Inground and Aboveground pools:<br /><br />Salt Systems (Salt-Chlorine Generators) for Inground Swimming Pools:<br />Goldine AquaRite<br />Autopilot<br />Hayward SwimPure<br />Jandy AquaPure Ei<br />Hayward Salt & Swim<br /><br />Salt Systems (Salt-Chlorine Generators) for Inground Swimming Pools:<br />Intex<br />AquaTrol<br />ChlorEase<br />Simpl-Chlor<br />Saltron Retro<br /><br />All of our salt chlorine generators will provide automatic, natural pool sanitization and are available at competitive prices.

Salt Systems (Salt-Chlorine Generators) for Inground and Aboveground Swimming Pools

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SPECIAL ON TEETH WHITENING - ...

SPECIAL ON TEETH WHITENING - FULL TEETH WHITENING TREATMENT FOR R 1450 SAVE UP TO -55% OFF MARKET PRICE. Free Home Whitening Treatment Gift Included !!!!<br /><br />Advance Teeth Whitening Pretoria.<br />For a Natural, Enamel Building Re-Mineral Teeth Whitening treatment.<br /><br />Bookings at Bonnie: 072 749 6131<br /><br />advanceteethwhitening@gmail.com<br /><br /><br /><br />Building and Losing Tooth Enamel – What does What<br /><br />tooth enamel tips Did you know that tooth enamel, the outer layer of your teeth, is the hardest substance in your body? That means it should last a lifetime regardless of how you care for it right? Wrong.. Although our tooth enamel was naturally made very durable, it too can and will wear away in time without consistent care. So what can you do to help ensure that your enamel lasts a lifetime? Check out these tooth enamel saving tips below!<br /><br />1. Limit Sugary and Acidic Foods and Drinks<br />I know that you hear this all the time, but the reason that you do is that it’s VERY important! Sugar and acids are your tooth enamels worst enemy. Once sugar gets on your teeth it turns into acid which slowly but surely softens and eats away at your tooth enamel. The stickier the substance the more the sugar will stay on your teeth and erode your enamel. So stay away from sugary foods and drinks as much as possible, especially soda which has high amounts of both sugar and acid.<br /><br />2. Eat Foods that will help to Protect your Enamel<br />Did you know that calcium not only helps to build healthy bones, but also helps to counteract enamel eating acids in your mouth? So try to seek out a few more calcium rich foods in your diet such as milk, cheese and other dairy products in order to help keep those enamel eating acids at bay.<br /><br />3. Use Fluoride!<br />Fluoride is crucial in helping to not only protect your tooth enamel from erosive acids, but also in helping to restore tooth enamel. There are many sources to get fluoride such as your toothpaste, mouthwashes and even your tap water. A regular dose of restorative fluoride is crucial in winning the battle against enamel erosion.<br /><br />4. Don’t Over-Brush<br />If you brush your teeth too hard, or with bristles that are too hard this can slowly wear down your tooth enamel. Always make sure that you are following best brushing techniques and replacing your toothbrush when recommended.<br /><br />5. Treat Heartburn<br />When stomach acids reach up past the esophagus and into the mouth they can cause severe tooth decay if happening on a regular basis. The same thing goes for eating disorders such as bulimia. So if this is the case for you then seek treatment options ASAP, otherwise your tooth enamel may have to pay the ultimate price in the long run.<br /><br />Some other things to be aware of in trying to keep your tooth enamel for life would be to not swim in over chlorinated pools (too much chlorine can erode your tooth enamel), avoid grinding your teeth, dry mouth, and of course, be sure to see your dentist at least twice a year for a thorough cleaning. Take these tips to heart and “get your smile on” for a lifetime!Advance Teeth Whitening. Performed by a proffessional. Excellent service, and best results achieved. Up to 14 shades lighter and more. Superior product and latest technology used. FDA approved.<br />The teeth are then coated with the whitening solution on the front surface of the tooth. Your office may choose to use either hydrogen peroxide orcarbamide peroxide as the bleaching agent. Many whitening products require a curing light or laser to be used to add heat to the solution to activate the peroxide. It will then be left on the teeth for 30 to 60 minutes, or reapplied in specific increments of time for up to one hour, depending on the brand.<br /><br />Once the optimum shade has been reached, or the maximum application time has passed, the teeth are rinsed with water and a fluoride application may be used to help ease the sensitivity some people experience with tooth whitening.<br /><br />You will be instructed to avoid foods and beverages that have a high level of pigment, such as coffee, tomato sauce or juice, yellow mustard, or red wine, and tobacco use for 24 hours after the procedure to allow the enamel pores to close to prevent re-staining.Bleaching vs. Whitening: What's the Difference?<br />According to the FDA, the term
The term "whitening," on the other hand, refers to restoring a tooth's surface color by removing dirt and debris. So any product that cleans (like a toothpaste) is technically considered a whitener. Of course, the term whitening sounds better than bleaching, so it is more frequently used – even when describing products that contain bleach.

Why Teeth Whitening? Examining Enamel
Most of us start out with sparkling white teeth, thanks to their porcelain-like enamel surface. Composed of microscopic crystalline rods, tooth enamel is designed to protect the teeth from the effects of chewing, gnashing, trauma and acid attacks caused by sugar. But over the years enamel is worn down, becoming more transparent and permitting the yellow color of dentin – the tooth's core material – to show through.

During routine chewing, dentin remains intact while millions of micro-cracks occur in the enamel. It is these cracks, as well as the spaces between the crystalline enamel rods, that gradually fill up with stains and debris. As a result, the teeth eventually develop a dull, lackluster appearance.

Teeth whitening removes the stains and debris, leaving the enamel cracks open and exposed. Some of the cracks are quickly re-mineralized by saliva, while others are filled up again with organic debris.

Tooth Discoloration: The Two Types of Tooth Stains
There are two categories of staining as it relates to the teeth: extrinsic staining and intrinsic staining.
Extrinsic stains are those that appear on the surface of the teeth as a result of exposure to dark-colored beverages, foods and tobacco, and routine wear and tear. Superficial extrinsic stains are minor and can be removed with brushing and prophylactic dental cleaning. Stubborn extrinsic stains can be removed with more involved efforts, like teeth bleaching. Persistent extrinsic stains can penetrate into the dentin and become ingrained if they are not dealt with early." width="100"/>

SPECIAL ON TEETH WHITENING - FULL TEETH WHITENING TREATMENT FOR R 1450 SAVE UP TO -55% OFF MARKET P...

 
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Summer Hair Rehab
Is your summ...

Summer Hair Rehab<br />Is your summertime fun in the sun taking a toll on your hair? From color fading to turning once-healthy hair into a dull, dry mess, too much sun leads to lots of bad hair days.<br /><br />Add in exposure to chlorine and saltwater and your hair needs some rehab, stat! We’ve got the solutions to bring your hair back from the brink!<br /><br />How Sun Damages Hair<br />Few things can be as enjoyable as a warm, sunny summer day spent outdoors. But as nice as a sunny day makes us feel, too much sun exposure can be nearly as bad for hair as it is for skin!<br /><br />When sunlight hits hair, it immediately begins breaking down hair’s protective layer, the cuticle. Think of this layer like shingles on a roof; what happens when the shingles degrade? Your roof lets unwanted substances (like water) in, and damage occurs.<br /><br />As the sun breaks down hair’s cuticle layer, it exposes the more delicate inner portion of the hair, which is even more vulnerable to damage, including protein breakdown (hair is mostly composed of dead proteins) and color loss, whether hair is dyed or not. (Source: http://goo.gl/3eWY0i.)<br /><br />With repeated, ongoing exposure to UVA and UVB radiation from the sun, your hair gradually becomes weaker, breaks easily, and its texture changes from silky-smooth to dry and rough. (Source: http://goo.gl/zB1lmQ.)<br /><br />It’s even worse if you dye or highlight your hair! Hair color fades due to oxidation brought on by sun exposure, so gray hair can become “bleached”, silver-white hair can take on a brassy or yellowish tinge, reds lose their vibrancy, brunette hair goes drab, and hair becomes dry, frizzy, and generally a lot less manageable from the cascade of damage. A hat is looking pretty good right about now! (Source: http://goo.gl/STQ2TA.)<br /><br />How Chlorine Damages Hair<br />Chlorine is an effective disinfectant necessary to keep swimming pool water clean, but it does a number on skin, eyes, and especially hair that’s not protected by a silicone-based product (see recommended options below) or a swim cap.<br /><br />A swim cap isn’t the most attractive option nor is it a bulletproof shield against chlorinated water, but can significantly protect hair from the ravages of chlorine.<br /><br />One other thing you can do before putting on a swim cap and silicone serum is to wet your hair with fresh tap water. Hair can only take on so much water at once, so it’s best to have most of that water be from the tap, not the pool!<br /><br />What about blonde hair turning green from chlorine? Actually, that’s a myth. According to chemistry expert Anne Marie Helmenstine, Ph.D, “It isn't the chlorine that turns blonde hair green. Oxidized metals in the water bind to the protein in the hair shaft and deposit their color.<br /><br />The metal that produces the green tint is copper. The bleach that is added to a pool may be responsible for oxidizing the metal, but it's not the cause of the color.”<br /><br />So what can you do if your hair turns green after a swim? Simple: Use a shampoo that chelates (binds with) the metallic elements, allowing them to be rinsed away, taking the green tinge with it!<br /><br />A great example of an inexpensive chelating shampoo is Suave Daily Clarifying Shampoo, sold in most drugstores.<br /><br />How Saltwater Damages Hair<br />Most would agree that saltwater exposure doesn’t take the same toll on hair as chlorine does, but that doesn’t mean saltwater is off the hook!<br /><br />True to its name, saltwater contains salt along with other minerals (like chloride and magnesium) that can rough up the cuticle layer and cause the hair shaft to swell and feel dry.<br /><br />It’s the swelling and resulting roughening of hair’s texture that makes all of those “beach” or “surf” sprays work when used to create textured, tousled-looking waves or to add a feeling of thickness to fine hair.<br /><br />On the ingredient list for almost all of these products you’ll see a high amount of either sodium chloride or magnesium chloride to approximate what hair is exposed to when its wet (or damp) from saltwater.<br /><br />You can reduce the damage from saltwater exposure much the same way you reduce hair damage from chlorine in pools: Protect your hair with a bathing cap, drench it in silicone serum (or a good leave-in conditioner) and, as soon as you exit the ocean, make a beeline to a shower so you can thoroughly rinse your hair with tap water.<br /><br />Tip: Do NOT let saltwater-drenched hair dry naturally in sunlight. Doing so gives already compromised hair a double dose of damage that can lead to hair breakage and tangles.<br /><br />Sun Protection for Hair?<br />Some hair-care products advertise that they contain UV filters to protect hair from sun damage. Unlike sunscreens for skin, hair-care products are not permitted by the United States FDA to list SPF ratings, as there’s no reliable way to measure how much sun protection such products would provide.<br /><br />They likely provide some protection, but likely not enough to rely on them; after all, how long would they really hold up with all hair goes through, and that’s assuming the sunscreen ingredients can deposit and uniformly hold to the length of each hair!<br /><br />There are studies in which a swatch of dyed hair is covered with sunscreen ingredients, then placed under UVA/UVB light, and after a period of time measured for deterioration and color fading. The sunscreen ingredients absolutely prevented damage. But that kind of study doesn't reflect how the product is actually used by consumers. Who is going to slather sunscreen on their hair then just leave it, doing nothing else to their hair afterward? (Source: http://goo.gl/UXfCMI.)<br /><br />What you can do to help reduce the damage is get into the habit of wearing stylish, vented hats on long days outdoors when you know you’ll be in direct sunlight.<br /><br />Not a hair person? We suggest misting your hair with any of the alcohol-based spray-on sunscreens rated SPF 30 or greater.<br /><br />Although it’s true the alcohol isn’t the best for hair, it evaporates quickly and keeps the active sunscreen ingredients from weighing hair down. Do this as the last step once your hair is styled, just like applying hairspray, and reapply throughout the day when you know you’ll be in the sun for long periods.<br /><br />Recommended Products for Summer Hair<br />Surprisingly, research has shown that using leave-on products that contain various silicones (such as dimethicone or trimethylsiloxysilicate) can help reduce fading of dyes hair due to sun exposure.  So, by all means slick a silicone serum or spray through hair before hitting the beach. (Source: http://goo.gl/1t8Cy2.)<br /><br />A few we like:<br />• Josie Maran Argan Oil Hair Serum (great for all hair types, but apply sparingly on fine hair)<br />• Nexxus Pro-mend Smoothing Shine Serum (great for normal to slightly thick hair)<br />• Got2b Glossy Anti-Frizz Shine Serum (great for thick, coarse hair)<br /><br />As for shampoos, even if your hair isn’t normally dry, switch to conditioning formulas instead of those that are more designed to remove buildup. Exception: If you routinely expose your hair to chlorine (and, as mentioned above, you can prevent this by donning a swim cap before getting in the pool) be sure to wash with a shampoo that can remove the chlorine buildup.<br /><br />We like Triswim Shampoo, as it’s a gentle, non-stripping formula that also helps remove chlorine odor.<br /><br />Conditioning shampoos to try include Garnier Fructis Triple Nutrition Fortifying Shampoo for Dry/Damaged Hair, Redken All Soft Shampoo, and Desert Essence Coconut Shampoo Nourishing for Dry Hair.<br /><br />Turning to conditioners, weather-beaten hair needs pampering formulas appropriate for your hair type. Here are some great options, all of which detangle and work for color-treated hair, too:<br /><br />For fine hair:<br />• Joico Moisture Recovery Conditioner<br />• Redken All Soft Conditioner (concentration application from mid-length to ends)<br />• UltraSwim Ultra Repair Conditioner<br /><br />For thick, coarse hair:<br />• Neutrogena Triple Moisture Daily Deep Conditioner<br />• Goldwell Kerasilk Ultra Rich Care Treatment for Dry, Damaged & Unmanageable Hair<br />• Desert Essence Coconut Conditioner Nourishing for Dry Hair<br /><br />Leave-in conditioners for days in the sun:<br />• Dove Pure Care Dry Oil Restorative Hair Treatment (best for normal to thick, coarse, or highly processed hair)<br />• Nexxus Humectress Luxe Ultimate Moisturizing Leave-in Spray (best for normal to fine or thin hair)<br />• Rusk Sensories Smoother Conditioner, Passionflower & Aloe (all hair types)<br /><br />#PaulasChoice #HairCare #BeautyTalk  

Summer Hair Rehab
Is your summertime fun in the sun taking a toll on your hair? From color fading to...

 
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The Most Natural Organic Pool ...

The Most Natural Organic Pool You Can Build Yourself  http://bit.ly/1ohGNIs<br /><br />There are many reasons to avoid chlorinated pools, most of all due to your health and the environment. Natural pools allow nature to provide hygienic water for swimming, and the vibrant ecology of plants and animals conditions the water so there is no need for any chemical disinfectants. These pools are healthy for people and wildlife. In fact the water quality in a natural pool is so good, many are well within drinking water standards.<br /><br />Scientists have known for decades that along with the good that comes with disinfecting water with chlorine, chemicals called disinfection byproducts can also be formed when chlorine reacts with organic substances like human skin and residues from body care products.<br /><br />Why is absorbing chlorine through the skin thought to be so dangerous? When you swallow water, you can count on the liver to filter out many toxins – but when something gets absorbed through your skin, it goes straight into the circulatory system.<br /><br />Studies have shown that drinking, bathing or swimming in chlorinated water may increase the risk of bladder cancer. Chemicals, most commonly chlorine, used to disinfect water can produce by-products that have been tied to increased cancer risk.<br /><br />Organic Pools<br /><br />The nutrient level in an organic pool is carefully restricted so competition for the limiting nutrient (usually phosphorous) is fierce. In these circumstances, pond plants outperform algae, keeping it supressed and barely hanging in at the margins. A pond, low in nutrients, is a healthy environment for wildlife. An organic pool is teeming with life. If an alien micro-organism, a human pathogen for instance, enters the water, it faces battalions of hungry pond dewelling micro-organisms to either starve it out of existence, or devour it. A water analysis of this pond water showed that it contained zero organisms of e coli. per litre of water.<br /><br />Swimming in a Natural pool among flowering plants of lilies, iris and marsh marigolds is a celebration of life. Soothing your limbs and mind and skin and eyes, it seems every cell in your body is telling you – this is the way swimming should be. Natural Pools work entirely with nature to provide hygienic water for swimming.<br /><br />More  http://bit.ly/1ohGNIs

The Most Natural Organic Pool You Can Build Yourself  http://bit.ly/1ohGNIs

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